In exceptionally simple terms, there are 3 general strategies employed. You need to be agile enough to switch game plans almost instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves assembling a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you can manage, to barricade in the opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most acceptable course of action at the begining of the game. You can create the wall anyplace within your 11-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your opponent on the bar. e.g., if your opponent tosses an early two and moves one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you can play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your opponent is then in big-time difficulty considering that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have closed half your inner board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or more anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a point occupied by at least 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be used when you are significantly behind as this plan greatly improves your circumstances. The best locations for anchor spots are near your competitor’s lower points and also on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is critical for an effectual backgame: besides, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a complete wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break apart this right away, while your opposer is shifting their checkers home, considering that you don’t have any other spare pieces to shift! In this case, it’s better to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up till your competitor provides you an opportunity to hit, so it will be an excellent idea to attempt and get your opponent to hit them in this situation!
You must be logged in to post a comment.
